Jordan’s past may be etched in stone (and buried by sand), but its future is written in glass and steel. Kick off this eight-day group tour in Amman, one of the Middle East’s modern up-and-comers, where underground galleries, trendy cafes and skyscrapers rub shoulders with treasures from Islamic antiquity. Then there’s the other Jordan, the Nabataean kingdom among the dunes – home to crusader castles, the faded footprints of Lawrence of Arabia and white-robed shepherds leading their flocks across the desert. Travel across the lunar landscape of Wadi Rum on a jeep safari and camp out beneath the stars, float in the Dead Sea, explore palm-fringed wadis and wander old Roman roads to the ancient city of Petra.